When I arrive it's hours coasting on roads emptied of traffic. Norwegian spruce flanks interrupted by villages with postcard houses. Farmsteads with bell crowned barns. Falu red paint with white frames.

The treeline giving ground to fields of sheep penned by zigzag roundpole fences, built from saplings, tied with peels of bark tightening as they dry.

Buzzards perching atop the tallest posts.

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