By LeAnne Hansen
Filled
We sat in my kitchen and talked about children, our national cultures, and food. Tamar had recently transplanted from Israeli to Kansas City soil. I made space in my busy schedule and kitchen for her, and over muffins, cookies, and conversation a friendship bloomed. A year later, before she and her family moved away, she gifted me her recipe for Cholent, a stew traditionally served on the Jewish Sabbath.
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Cholent This stew is cooked on low heat overnight in the oven. There are a million ways to prepare Cholent, so adjust it to your family’s taste. To start, soak 1 cup each lima beans and kidney beans overnight, or put them in boiling water for 30-60 minutes. Drain.
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My dad was a man of simple tastes. He loved fast food, driving his truck, my mom, Johnny Cash, and cowboy poetry. He passed away four years ago. My siblings are scattered from Virginia to Oregon, but on December 1st, Dad’s birthday, we gather in our respective Costco food courts for his favorite lunch, the All Beef Hot Dog & 20 oz. Soda (with refill). We raise our hot dogs in remembrance and snap a photo to share with each other and Mom. A hot dog and soda become the seed from which memories of Dad bloom, and we breathe his love and gentleness all day long.
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For your Cholent, use a large enamel stew pot that can be used on the stove top as well as in the oven. Sauté 2-3 chopped onions in olive oil until soft. Add 2 pounds stew meat and 2 marrow bones to the center of the pot. Arrange 6-7 potatoes, peeled and cut in half, around the meat.
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In Hanoi, Dalton and Hau invited my husband and me into their lives. Dalton is my daughter-in-law’s brother; Hau, his diminutive, inquisitive, fearless Vietnamese wife. We savored their company and a delicious meal in a little Vietnamese restaurant Dalton nicknamed “Communist Hot Pot,” for the photos of past government leaders displayed on the walls. We ate Xoi Xeo—mung beans, dried pork cooked in soy sauce and sugar, and crispy fried shallots nestled in a glutinous cloud of rice, wrapped in banana leaves and purchased from a street vendor. We had Pho for breakfast with a raw egg cracked into the steaming broth, its yoke a sunrise. Years later, during their trip to Kansas City, Dalton grilled pork meatballs on our patio. They smelled of shallot and lemongrass. When they were cooked, their outer layer slightly caramelized from the flames, he placed them on a plate alongside the lemon balm and spearmint leaves Hau picked from our garden, and morning glory she’d brought from Vietnam to make Bun Cha for my family. We gathered eagerly around her while she ladled a sweet and tangy broth, simmered with fish sauce, into bowls already containing fresh rice noodles. We carried our steaming bowls with their precious contents to the deck, where we packed them with greens and meatballs. While we slurped that sweet and salty elixir, my grandchildren and their beautiful son scampered among the toys and trees. As we talked and laughed, generations and relations blended.
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Add the rinsed beans, ½ cup barley, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 teaspoons paprika, and cayenne to taste. Stir. Add 6 whole eggs, uncooked and rinsed.
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Grandma Anderson had a dairy farm. The milking barn contained a huge tank which kept the milk cold until the Meadowgold truck came to collect it. My older and taller cousins pulled a milk can next to the tank and helped me stand on it, then lifted the lid so I could peer into that creamy white pool. A mechanical paddle stirred the milk from time to time, creating glistening ripples, and sometimes we could pluck little pieces of frozen milk from the top layer. It melted on our tongues and ran down our throats, sweet and satisfying.
Memories of my grandmas are steeped in the food I ate in their homes. Grandma Anderson was creamy milk in a tin cup and homemade wheat bread. Grandma Bingham was ice cream, popsicles, and soda pop. I had grandpas, too, but even as a young child I knew the givers of treats were the grandmas—their love and attention a reservoir, stirred and glistening in my heart.
** Add water or chicken broth to cover, and boil on the stovetop for about 30 minutes. Heat oven to 210 degrees, and transfer the pot to the oven. Cook for 8 hours. Check occasionally, adding water to keep ingredients covered. You may also add cinnamon and chopped dates for sweetness or cumin for savory.
** In Russia, my family ate Okroshka with a woman my son calls Mama Tamara—so named because she’d “mothered” him while he lived there. At her invitation, my family joined her sons and their families in her tiny apartment living room. Mama Tamara spoke no English, and I spoke no Russian, so we used our sons as translators. When the meal was ready, her sons brought tables and every chair they owned into the living room. Mama Tamara brought in bowls of cubed boiled potatoes and passed around chopped hard boiled eggs, diced ham, chopped dill, and diced cucumbers. Finally, she walked around the table with a large bottle of kvas, a Russian beverage made from fermented bread and poured it over each bowl to the level she deemed “just right.” It was delicious—tart, starchy-sweet, ringing with dill and sour cream, filling, refreshing, and infused with the kindness of a confident and generous woman in humble circumstances. We talked and laughed, Russian mingling with English, and were filled. Before we left, Mama Tamara and I embraced as friends, belly to belly.
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Cool and peel the eggs. Mash or slice and stir them back into the Cholent. Serve with gratitude and love to hungry people. Enjoy both!