Making Salt and Pepper Shakers
I've made a couple sets of salt and pepper shakers using the Woodcraft Salt and Pepper Shaker kit and am writing up this list so I tackle items in an order which is close to the simplest.
I'm also going to list the equipment I used. There was more than I would've expected as a newbie, and sometimes “simple” projects end up requiring quite a bit of equipment. In this case, you can get by with less, but having all this stuff makes it pretty quick and easy.
Equipment
- Nova chuck with 70mm jaws
- Nova chuck with 50mm jaws – any Nova chuck comes with these
- Nova chuck with Pin Jaw Set
- a 60 degree live tailstock for steps 1-8
- a ⅜” spindle gouge for roughing
- a ½” skew for everything else.
- tailstock drill bit chuck, or morse taper for 10mm hex shank forstner bits
- 1 inch Forstner bit with extension
- 1⅜ inch Forstner bit
- 1.5 inch Forstner bit
Steps
- Install the chuck with the 70mm jaws on the lathe, and secure a (roughly) two inch square by 4 inch long blank in the jaws.
- Rough the blank to about a 2 inch diameter.
- Bore a 1⅜” hole ¼” deep in what will become the bottom.
- Bore a 1” hole through the middle of the blank.
- Get the bottom close to the correct outside size. You can see the walls of the 1⅜ hole, and they should be at least ⅛-¼ thick. You can always turn it down more later, but you need the bottom to fit in the 2 inch chuck for the next step.
- Switch to a 2 inch (50mm) contracting chuck and turn the piece around.
- Bore a 1½” hole 3/16” deep in the top using a Forstner bit. If it looks like the hole will be off-center, try repositioning the workpiece.
- Rough the top down to about 1¾”
- Remove the workpiece from the chuck and insert the tube with medium CA glue. It's helpful to have the top of the tube protruding about ⅛” above the bottom of the 1½ inch bore so the epoxy won't run inside the tube.
- Put the shaker top into the top of the workpiece with epoxy, making sure not to get any inside the tube.
- Once the epoxy has had a chance to cure, put the shaker onto the pin jaws on an expanding chuck with the bottom end on the chuck.
- Finish turning the outside to the final shape. You can get the top edge pretty close to the shaker insert, as the inside is reinforced with epoxy. I aim for a little over 1mm thick on the wood outside the shaker top.
- Sand and finish the shaker on the lathe. I used tung oil and shellac friction finish, with a final coat of carnauba wax.
- Blow out the dust, pop the stopper into the bottom and then carefully finish the bottom edge of the shaker. I typically sand it on a piece of sandpaper and then apply a couple coats of shellac.
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