davepolaschek

woodcarving

A while back, I bought a sander designed to square pen blanks from Penn State Industries. It’s a nice little unit, but there are small pieces included and it’s not a nice shape to store, so I built a box to hold it.

Pen squaring sander box

Construction is pretty simple, but I tried a few things to practice them. The sides and ends of the box are angled in at a 7.5°︎ angle. The dovetails were otherwise cut as normal, which worked fine, though I appreciated having made the sides from pine when it came time to fit things together, as pine will compress a little which makes inaccuracies less of a pain.

End of box

The bottom of the box is some poplar I had on hand. Had to glue up some boards to get the right shape, and then I added cleats to hold the sander in place.

The top of the box sits over the base and the sander, and I will be attaching the sander to the base once I’m certain that’ll work. I’ll also be building storage pockets into the cover of the box to hold things like spare sanding discs and the adapter so I can connect the sander to the dust collector.

Base of sander storage box, with sander and accessories

Finally, I did some practice carving on the sides of the box. Nothing super-fancy, but it felt like I needed some practice, and I know I found a half-dozen gouges that needed sharpening along the way, so it was a good time to do some carving.

Carved side of the box

That’s it.


Of course, that isn’t it. A friend on mastodon asked about the style of the carving. I replied:

I learned mostly from Ron Aylor, who was heavily inspired by Peter Follansbee, so yes, it’s in the style of Peter Follansbee, but at a remove. I bought Ron’s Categories of 17th-Century Mannerist Carving years ago, and mostly refer to that, but I also have been reading through Mary May’s Carving the Acanthus Leaf and some of the details are things from her book.


Of course, that isn’t it, either. Since I’m reading about carving the acanthus leaf, I decided to get some practice. I sketched a leaf on the uncarved side of the box a while ago, and started lowering the background around it this morning. More to come, I’m sure.

Sketched skewed acanthus leaf on the side of a pine box; the background around the leaf has been lowered as a carving warm-up.


Another three hours working on the leaf this morning, and the leaf is farther along. I had problems with the central rib / stem of the leaf, and there are a number of finer ribs I still need to carve, but I’m also thinking that maybe I’ve had enough for this practice.

Pine box, with a carved acanthus leaf somewhat farther along than the previous photo


No time yesterday, and only about 90 minutes this morning, but I cleaned up the leaf a bit, and may do a little more on it tomorrow, plus I started lowering the background around a circular hex (maybe). I think the border is going to be a barrel and bead pattern.

Closer to finished acanthus leaf in pine; I have started lowering the background around a circular hex

I worked this morning with a relatively strong sidelight. I keep being surprised at just how much better I can see what I’m doing with just small changes to the light.


Two more sessions, one short (almost exactly an hour) and one longer (three hours and a bit) and I think I have finished. At a minimum, I got close enough to put a coat of oil on the wood and step away from it. I’ll see what I think once the oil has had a chance to cure.

Close-up of circular hex

Finished carving on the storage box

#woodworking #shopStorage #woodCarving

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I’ve been needing a single place to store my files, rasps, and floats for a while now. They were stored in two older tills, one of which had been repurposed from a saw till, and another which used to be something else that I don’t remember. Plus I had a number of files laying loose on various flat surfaces around the shop.

File, rasp, and float till, filled.

I started by building three racks to hold the files of various lengths. The largest holds 12 files, the middle holds 15, and the shortest rack can hold 20 files, though only the shortest in length will fit.

The racks are made of ⅜ inch thick oak, either 1 or 2 inches wide. Each rack has a bottom piece with indentations drilled in it, and a cross piece with magnets embedded to hold the files in place. They all pivot on the dowels that mount them (though this isn’t an especially useful feature) so they can be tipped forward or backward to access the files without knocking the ones in the rows in front. The racks were treated with iron acetate to ebonite them, though the solution was a couple weeks old, which is, I suspect, why I got a dark brown rather than a black finish.

Empty file till

The carcasse is built of ¾ inch thick pine, and dovetailed together, with the shelf above the drawer resting in a pair of ¼ inch deep dadoes. The drawer is also dovetailed, with half-blind dovetails holding the drawer front in place. This is the first time I’ve built half-blind dovetails, so it was good practice. The drawer-front is also carved with a design I made up over a few days of carving.

Carved pine drawer front

The pine is all finished with a coat of kakishibu. It’ll get a few coats of tung oil once it has had a little time to darken, unless I decide it needs a second coat of kakishibu first.

The drawer hold spare file handles, file cards, and needle files. A couple weeks of construction, the added carving on the front of the till makes it feel a little special and I also got to practice barrel and bead moulding which came out nice.

#woodworking #project #woodCarving #shopFurniture

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